| Contact Info: octoped@cox.net Breeding in February Puppies expected, 05/15/ 2010 |
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Click on photos to enlarge
Majestic's Sienna Rose at
T town Bordeaux ( Sienna )
T town Bordeaux ( Sienna )
Sienna 24 months
135 pounds..CLICK picture
for Sienna's page
135 pounds..CLICK picture
for Sienna's page
Tanakajd Szepe Vazul. He was 155 lbs. with phenomenal
conformation. His head measured 32", 24" chest, 24" at the withers,
24" length and a gorgeous dark red coat. Vazul was sired by CH
Univer Van de Paterhoek * and dam, multi-Internationally titled CH
Tanakajd Szepe Fibra. There are many other famous and fabulous
Multi-Champions in their pedigree, including CH Korona Baster, CH
Bam Bam Un De Mes Amis, CH Belmondo the Red Powerpack, CH
Red-Black Siber Amigo', CH Iroc de la Gaie Maisonnee, Tanakajd
Szepe Oliver, Riverbend's Sherman, Handsome Jack, Von
Munsterplatz, and more.
conformation. His head measured 32", 24" chest, 24" at the withers,
24" length and a gorgeous dark red coat. Vazul was sired by CH
Univer Van de Paterhoek * and dam, multi-Internationally titled CH
Tanakajd Szepe Fibra. There are many other famous and fabulous
Multi-Champions in their pedigree, including CH Korona Baster, CH
Bam Bam Un De Mes Amis, CH Belmondo the Red Powerpack, CH
Red-Black Siber Amigo', CH Iroc de la Gaie Maisonnee, Tanakajd
Szepe Oliver, Riverbend's Sherman, Handsome Jack, Von
Munsterplatz, and more.
Macho Sienna's
Dad
Dad
The Sire is here you can see his page ( Claudius )
and now meet T Town's new International
Champion Sired female Majestic's Lady Ann, We
bred ANNIE ending the 11th of March and SIENNA
ending the 16th
Annie pups are here as of May 9th 2010
and now meet T Town's new International
Champion Sired female Majestic's Lady Ann, We
bred ANNIE ending the 11th of March and SIENNA
ending the 16th
Annie pups are here as of May 9th 2010
Get on the list
NOW if you want
to reserve a place
in pick order.
NOW if you want
to reserve a place
in pick order.
Scarlet Sienna's Mom
| for information on dog diseases ... http://www.marvistavet.com/h tml/the_pet_web_library.html |
Majestic's Lady Ann ( Annie )
at T town Bordeaux
at T town Bordeaux
Annie 4 years 2 months
124 pounds.. CLICK picture
for Annie's page
124 pounds.. CLICK picture
for Annie's page
Click for
puppie page
puppie page
Willow Creek's ( Claudius ) the Valiant
10 months old our new Stud!Came to
Ttownbordeaux from Chaedoaux Kennels
Thanks to Mandy for agreeing to sell him to
Ttownboudeaux From Canada to the U S A
10 months old our new Stud!Came to
Ttownbordeaux from Chaedoaux Kennels
Thanks to Mandy for agreeing to sell him to
Ttownboudeaux From Canada to the U S A
Willow Creek's Claudius
at T townbordeaux
at T townbordeaux
Click picture for Claude's page
Click picture for
that girl's page
that girl's page
Tanakajd Szepe Vazul.
Annie's Sire
Sienna's Grand Sire
Annie's Sire
Sienna's Grand Sire
Annie in red Sienna in blue
Tanakajd Szepe Vazul.
Annie's Sire
Sienna's Grand Sire
Annie's Sire
Sienna's Grand Sire
DEMODEX
by Cat Donnelly, Pet Nutritional Consultant
Demodex is not a genetic disease. Demodex mites feed on systemic yeast in the body, and the
systemic yeast feed on the dietary yeast and/or sugar in the system (blood sugar). As you will see, my
method of dealing with demodex is to starve the mite by taking away it's food source, which is the
yeastie beastie. Without this food source, the demodex will easily die off without dipping or
insecticides of any kind.
Demodex mites take advantage of an immature or lowered immune system which is why the very
young get it, and sometimes the very old or ill. A dog's immune system is not fully mature until at least
one year, sometimes longer. This is only one reason why it is NOT advisable to breed dogs younger
than 18 - 24 months minimum.
Demodex mites are living in just about every dog, deep within the hair follicles. When pups are
nursing, the mites migrate from the mom to the pups. This is why the most common areas to show
demodex first are on the face, head and front paws, and then they migrate to every other area of the
body.
When the immune system is maturing but battling to keep the mites in balance, you can sometimes
see hairless patches appearing and disappearing on different parts of the body. It may even progress
to the point where the mites colonize and erupt on the surface, making the skin look pimply or rashy.
Don't bother with Goodwinol ointment because it is worthless, in my experience. You would get better
results from dabbing lemon juice or apple cider vinegar on the spots, or spraying with colloidal silver.
Apple cider vinegar will keep the odor down from any secondary staph infection. Yeasty ears will
commonly be a problem during this battle.
The reason why vets and others say that demodex is genetic is because they are still working with the
old information, and even with the knowledge that it is a mite, it is hard to break that habit. Other
possibilities are:
1) They must not understand the life of a demodectic mite. Demodex is not in the genetic make-up in
any way whatsoever. There is no genetic mutation or genetic marker that causes demodex. The
immune system is a living thing that can be raised or suppressed, it is not fixed. The mite is an
opportunistic parasite only, and can be eradicated completely.
2) they also must not understand how the body can be helped to fight demodex off on it's own
(through diet and supplementation), without toxins taken internally and applied externally which have
long-lasting and detrimental effects.
3) they must not understand the role that diet has on the immune system and therefore the demodectic
mite. While demodex was once a rare state of dis-ease, generations of being fed kibble and
overzealous vaccination programs wear down the immune system of each successive generation
until today you hear about demodectic puppies all the time.
You can take a dam who has produced an entire litter of demodectic pups, put her on a grainless raw
diet (a la Kymythy Schultze) with supplementation for a year, breed her again and she will not produce
any demodex in the subsequent litter. I know, because I've done it. If it were genetic, or in the genes, it
would not matter WHAT I fed her, at least a certain percentage of her pups would have it.
So, if a breeder had fed BRAND X dog food and followed the old vaccination protocols for several
generations, and her dogs have subclinically (no outward signs) been getting weaker immune
systems, then to the naked eye it would logically look like the problem is genetic. This particular dam
starts spontaneously producing litter after litter of demodex pups in a line that had previously been
clear of it, but it's manageable so they keep breeding her anyway.
When her pups are bred, they produce all demodex pups, only worse cases. Clearly this must be due
to a "bad gene." This logic is as good as seeing birds fly south in the winter and deducing that ALL
birds fly south for the winter. It might initially appear to be true, but further investigation tells you that it
is not. Mites are not a part of any gene, so that statement doesn't even make sense. It's the immune
system that is inherited, not the particular disease.
The problem with their logic is that you can take this line and turn it completely around through
upgrading their diet and modifying the vaccination schedule, or eliminating vaccines altogether.
Switch to a better kibble. Give healthy snacks like sliced melon or peeled apple slices that have live
enzymes instead of biscuits which are a "dead" food. Give good quality supplements.
The best possible scenario, in my opinion, would be to feed grainless BARF (biologically appropriate
raw foods). Anyone wanting to pursue that diet should have Kymythy Schultze's book on the subject.
Home cooked is also a very good regimen to raise the health of our companions if it's a choice
between that or any kibble. A book I highly recommend is Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural
Health for Cats and Dogs.
Okay, so now that we have established that demodex could not possibly be genetic, let me say that it
is "congenital" in that a sub-standard immune system is passed on from the mother to the pups, and
the mites can migrate to the pups from the mom shortly after birth. After generations of being fed
kibbles, which are a "dead" food, the mom will have little immunity to pass on to her pups, and she will
harbor plenty of demodectic mites in her pores ready to migrate to the pups that her own immune
system is keeping in check. That is the sum total of the relationship between demodectic mites and
how it is "inherited" from the mom by her pups.
So, you HAVE demodex and don't know what to do about it? Can it be treated naturally? YES! In fact, I
would highly recommend it. The conventional path is highly toxic (as evidenced if you've ever seen a
dog after it's dipped) and can keep your pet's immune system weakened for life. There is usually
absolutely no reason for this, in my experience.
Here is the holistic protocol:
1) Feed an anti-yeast diet (LINK TO ALLERGY/YEAST ARTICLE). Mites feed on the systemic yeast or
yeast living in the body, and systemic yeast feed on nutritional yeast and sugars (carbohydrates). If
you break the cycle, you weaken or starve the systemic yeast and then the mites cannot colonize in
the pores, crowding and pushing out the hairs and migrating to other pores looking for food.
This is the reason for grainless diet (ESPECIALLY NO WHEAT OR NUTRITIONAL YEAST OF ANY
KIND) with only meat, bones and low glycemic fruits and veggies (green leafy, not root veggies), or in
other words, only foods that do not readily raise your pet's blood sugar.
Plain kefir is a wonderful anti-yeast food, in moderation. Plain yogurt is a secondary substitute.
Acidophilus/lactobacillus (pro-biotics) supplementation is preferred because overall, dairy will feed
yeast. No cheese, no cottage cheese. If grains have to be used, make sure they are whole grains and
not refined. No sweeteners of any kind, including molasses, honey, etc. Many have reported good
results from supplementing with Immune Factor bovine colostrum, which is a pro-biotic that works in
the lower digestive tract.
If feeding kibble, I would recommend Flint River Ranch Lamb/millet/rice kibble. This can be ordered by
calling (909) 682-5048 and telling them you were referred by distributor AK53 (Cat Donnelly). If you
have a hard time getting through, I would be glad to call your order in for you. Your food will come via
UPS. Be sure to have me send you the feeding guidelines since you feed so much less than most
commercial foods. The cost "as fed" should work out to be very close to most commercial kibbles,
even though the cost per pound is more.
2) Make sure the pup gets LOTS of rest! This is crucial. If the pup is in a high traffic area, it is important
to put a crate in a quiet room and give him frequent rest periods.
3) Fresh air and sunshine are very therapeutic. Regular exercise and playtime is a must. Think
HEALTHY. Do what the dog loves. Channel his energies by training him, teaching him tricks.
Oxygenating the blood is an important part of an anti-yeast regimen. Yeast thrive in moist, dark places
with little to no oxygen.
4) NO STRESS. If you are in a stressful relationship, make a choice, the partner or the pup must go for
the good of the pup. I am dead serious. You may be faced with giving the pup up to a better home for
his/her own good if you are not willing to give up the partner. If your pup has a high stress personality,
perhaps some Primorye Pet would be in order. Go to oxyfreshww.com and use 180606370 as the
referring distributor.
The most stressful part of a female pup's life is being in heat. If you cannot get this under control
quickly, do not put her through the stress of being in heat. The stress of the spay operation is far less
than what you will see erupt during the heat cycle, believe me when I tell you that I speak from
experience.
5) On top of a good diet, I highly recommend supplementing with anti-oxidants (I carry Oxyfresh Pet
Anti-oxidants or K&R's Super OxyGreen), or you can supplement with separate anti-oxidant vitamins
like Vit C and Vit E. It's usually cheaper to go combo. The recommended daily dosage is Vit C 250 -
1,000 milligrams depending on size, vitamin E 100 IU to 400 IU.
Other supplements to consider are apple cider vinegar in the water (a scant tsp will do, it's very
strong), and vitamin 'F' or essential fatty acids. Essential fatty acids will help the skin heal quickly and
the hair/fur to grow back. I carry an excellent line from K&R Naturals called MaxiDerm.
For demodex, I highly recommend Nupro liver-flavored vitamin/mineral powder which also contains
pro-biotics AND essential fatty acids as well. It also contains lecithin with is great for the immune
system and healing. The manufacturer makes Nupro specially for us at Alternative Pets without any
nutritional yeast. Don't let the dosage scare you off, you can cut it in half after the first 8 weeks.
Echinacea and Goldenseal can be used internally, and also externally on the affected skin (for
secondary staph). It is both an anti-fungal and also aids in healing.
6) Our most powerful anti-yeast tool by far is Yeast & Fungal Detox which is a tincture your give 3x/day
in water. It can be given in food if you double the dosage. This ensures that you are not only
weakening the yeast, but really eradicating it. Typically the dog will go through a "healing crisis" for a
day or two, and then they will be phenomenally better.
The healing crisis may include fever, eye exudate, mucus from the nose, yeast ears (use Ear Wash &
Dry), itchy skin eruptions (Aller'G Free, Dermaplex shampoo and Rejuva spray or Rejuva Gel helps),
and can even include a little diarrhea. This is the only way the body can eradicate the yeast, and the
mites that feed on the yeast. Do not panic, it will get better. Any acute symptoms are rare and should
be immediately evaluated by a veterinarian.
7) Zinc is also helpful during this treatment. You can feed ground pumpkin seeds or 10 - 30 milligrams
of chelated zinc tablets.
8) Absolutely NO vaccinations until the crisis is over and behind you for quite some time. Tell your
veterinarian that you want a health waiver until the pup is clear of demodex for at least 2 months or
more. It says on the vaccine vials that they should ONLY be given to healthy animals.
Since demodex is considered life threatening in some cases (usually only because it's mismanaged
with suppressive and toxic therapies), you cannot damage the immune system further with
vaccinations at this time. The key is that you need to enforce the immune system, not give it something
ELSE to try to deal with. That makes NO sense. If your vet doesn't agree, find one who will. It is
essential. Also, using cortisone on demodectic dogs will almost make treating the disease impossible.
9) Find ways to control parasites naturally. Nature's Finest Herbal Wormer can be used monthly to
keep tapeworm and other parasites under control. It contains ground walnut hull which is what
naturalists use to keep heartworm in check. You can also use aromatherapy (Aromaleigh Flea Spritz)
to keep fleas and mosquitoes away. You can place beneficial nematodes and plant lemon grasses in
the yard. There is a wealth of information out there to keep you away from putting poison in your dog
each month (apparently heartworm preventative incidentally is only needed every 6 weeks but they
think the general public is too stupid to grasp that and so make it monthly), plus another dab of toxin
between the shoulder blades. There are other ways to handle it in my opinion. It might take more work,
but the end result is a healthier dog and a healthier you (you don't need those toxins in your
environment either).
10) Dr. Pitcairn recommends the homeopathic Sulphur 6x with daily doses over a period of 4 weeks. At
each treatment, place just one pellet or tablet on the tongue or down the throat (without touching it
yourself). Do not feed your pet 10 minutes before or after this treatment. When the condition is
obviously clearing up, taper off of the treatments by giving the doses further apart. If there isn't a
complete cure in 4 weeks, then you can continue the treatment for as long as it helps for a period of
several months (but this is rare).
11) Dr. Pitcairn recommends a five day fast before starting the program if the dog is at a good weight
and it's overall health is good. A fast is something you ease into and ease out of, and he has complete
instructions in Chapter 15 of his book, Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and
Cats.
More information on yeast eradication is available in the allergy/ yeast article. Contact me directly with
any questions. The preceding article is a nutritional recommendation, and should not be a substitute
for quality veterinary care.
Cat Donnelly
AlternativePets.com
(501) 643-3026
NaturalPetFoods@aol.com
by Cat Donnelly, Pet Nutritional Consultant
Demodex is not a genetic disease. Demodex mites feed on systemic yeast in the body, and the
systemic yeast feed on the dietary yeast and/or sugar in the system (blood sugar). As you will see, my
method of dealing with demodex is to starve the mite by taking away it's food source, which is the
yeastie beastie. Without this food source, the demodex will easily die off without dipping or
insecticides of any kind.
Demodex mites take advantage of an immature or lowered immune system which is why the very
young get it, and sometimes the very old or ill. A dog's immune system is not fully mature until at least
one year, sometimes longer. This is only one reason why it is NOT advisable to breed dogs younger
than 18 - 24 months minimum.
Demodex mites are living in just about every dog, deep within the hair follicles. When pups are
nursing, the mites migrate from the mom to the pups. This is why the most common areas to show
demodex first are on the face, head and front paws, and then they migrate to every other area of the
body.
When the immune system is maturing but battling to keep the mites in balance, you can sometimes
see hairless patches appearing and disappearing on different parts of the body. It may even progress
to the point where the mites colonize and erupt on the surface, making the skin look pimply or rashy.
Don't bother with Goodwinol ointment because it is worthless, in my experience. You would get better
results from dabbing lemon juice or apple cider vinegar on the spots, or spraying with colloidal silver.
Apple cider vinegar will keep the odor down from any secondary staph infection. Yeasty ears will
commonly be a problem during this battle.
The reason why vets and others say that demodex is genetic is because they are still working with the
old information, and even with the knowledge that it is a mite, it is hard to break that habit. Other
possibilities are:
1) They must not understand the life of a demodectic mite. Demodex is not in the genetic make-up in
any way whatsoever. There is no genetic mutation or genetic marker that causes demodex. The
immune system is a living thing that can be raised or suppressed, it is not fixed. The mite is an
opportunistic parasite only, and can be eradicated completely.
2) they also must not understand how the body can be helped to fight demodex off on it's own
(through diet and supplementation), without toxins taken internally and applied externally which have
long-lasting and detrimental effects.
3) they must not understand the role that diet has on the immune system and therefore the demodectic
mite. While demodex was once a rare state of dis-ease, generations of being fed kibble and
overzealous vaccination programs wear down the immune system of each successive generation
until today you hear about demodectic puppies all the time.
You can take a dam who has produced an entire litter of demodectic pups, put her on a grainless raw
diet (a la Kymythy Schultze) with supplementation for a year, breed her again and she will not produce
any demodex in the subsequent litter. I know, because I've done it. If it were genetic, or in the genes, it
would not matter WHAT I fed her, at least a certain percentage of her pups would have it.
So, if a breeder had fed BRAND X dog food and followed the old vaccination protocols for several
generations, and her dogs have subclinically (no outward signs) been getting weaker immune
systems, then to the naked eye it would logically look like the problem is genetic. This particular dam
starts spontaneously producing litter after litter of demodex pups in a line that had previously been
clear of it, but it's manageable so they keep breeding her anyway.
When her pups are bred, they produce all demodex pups, only worse cases. Clearly this must be due
to a "bad gene." This logic is as good as seeing birds fly south in the winter and deducing that ALL
birds fly south for the winter. It might initially appear to be true, but further investigation tells you that it
is not. Mites are not a part of any gene, so that statement doesn't even make sense. It's the immune
system that is inherited, not the particular disease.
The problem with their logic is that you can take this line and turn it completely around through
upgrading their diet and modifying the vaccination schedule, or eliminating vaccines altogether.
Switch to a better kibble. Give healthy snacks like sliced melon or peeled apple slices that have live
enzymes instead of biscuits which are a "dead" food. Give good quality supplements.
The best possible scenario, in my opinion, would be to feed grainless BARF (biologically appropriate
raw foods). Anyone wanting to pursue that diet should have Kymythy Schultze's book on the subject.
Home cooked is also a very good regimen to raise the health of our companions if it's a choice
between that or any kibble. A book I highly recommend is Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural
Health for Cats and Dogs.
Okay, so now that we have established that demodex could not possibly be genetic, let me say that it
is "congenital" in that a sub-standard immune system is passed on from the mother to the pups, and
the mites can migrate to the pups from the mom shortly after birth. After generations of being fed
kibbles, which are a "dead" food, the mom will have little immunity to pass on to her pups, and she will
harbor plenty of demodectic mites in her pores ready to migrate to the pups that her own immune
system is keeping in check. That is the sum total of the relationship between demodectic mites and
how it is "inherited" from the mom by her pups.
So, you HAVE demodex and don't know what to do about it? Can it be treated naturally? YES! In fact, I
would highly recommend it. The conventional path is highly toxic (as evidenced if you've ever seen a
dog after it's dipped) and can keep your pet's immune system weakened for life. There is usually
absolutely no reason for this, in my experience.
Here is the holistic protocol:
1) Feed an anti-yeast diet (LINK TO ALLERGY/YEAST ARTICLE). Mites feed on the systemic yeast or
yeast living in the body, and systemic yeast feed on nutritional yeast and sugars (carbohydrates). If
you break the cycle, you weaken or starve the systemic yeast and then the mites cannot colonize in
the pores, crowding and pushing out the hairs and migrating to other pores looking for food.
This is the reason for grainless diet (ESPECIALLY NO WHEAT OR NUTRITIONAL YEAST OF ANY
KIND) with only meat, bones and low glycemic fruits and veggies (green leafy, not root veggies), or in
other words, only foods that do not readily raise your pet's blood sugar.
Plain kefir is a wonderful anti-yeast food, in moderation. Plain yogurt is a secondary substitute.
Acidophilus/lactobacillus (pro-biotics) supplementation is preferred because overall, dairy will feed
yeast. No cheese, no cottage cheese. If grains have to be used, make sure they are whole grains and
not refined. No sweeteners of any kind, including molasses, honey, etc. Many have reported good
results from supplementing with Immune Factor bovine colostrum, which is a pro-biotic that works in
the lower digestive tract.
If feeding kibble, I would recommend Flint River Ranch Lamb/millet/rice kibble. This can be ordered by
calling (909) 682-5048 and telling them you were referred by distributor AK53 (Cat Donnelly). If you
have a hard time getting through, I would be glad to call your order in for you. Your food will come via
UPS. Be sure to have me send you the feeding guidelines since you feed so much less than most
commercial foods. The cost "as fed" should work out to be very close to most commercial kibbles,
even though the cost per pound is more.
2) Make sure the pup gets LOTS of rest! This is crucial. If the pup is in a high traffic area, it is important
to put a crate in a quiet room and give him frequent rest periods.
3) Fresh air and sunshine are very therapeutic. Regular exercise and playtime is a must. Think
HEALTHY. Do what the dog loves. Channel his energies by training him, teaching him tricks.
Oxygenating the blood is an important part of an anti-yeast regimen. Yeast thrive in moist, dark places
with little to no oxygen.
4) NO STRESS. If you are in a stressful relationship, make a choice, the partner or the pup must go for
the good of the pup. I am dead serious. You may be faced with giving the pup up to a better home for
his/her own good if you are not willing to give up the partner. If your pup has a high stress personality,
perhaps some Primorye Pet would be in order. Go to oxyfreshww.com and use 180606370 as the
referring distributor.
The most stressful part of a female pup's life is being in heat. If you cannot get this under control
quickly, do not put her through the stress of being in heat. The stress of the spay operation is far less
than what you will see erupt during the heat cycle, believe me when I tell you that I speak from
experience.
5) On top of a good diet, I highly recommend supplementing with anti-oxidants (I carry Oxyfresh Pet
Anti-oxidants or K&R's Super OxyGreen), or you can supplement with separate anti-oxidant vitamins
like Vit C and Vit E. It's usually cheaper to go combo. The recommended daily dosage is Vit C 250 -
1,000 milligrams depending on size, vitamin E 100 IU to 400 IU.
Other supplements to consider are apple cider vinegar in the water (a scant tsp will do, it's very
strong), and vitamin 'F' or essential fatty acids. Essential fatty acids will help the skin heal quickly and
the hair/fur to grow back. I carry an excellent line from K&R Naturals called MaxiDerm.
For demodex, I highly recommend Nupro liver-flavored vitamin/mineral powder which also contains
pro-biotics AND essential fatty acids as well. It also contains lecithin with is great for the immune
system and healing. The manufacturer makes Nupro specially for us at Alternative Pets without any
nutritional yeast. Don't let the dosage scare you off, you can cut it in half after the first 8 weeks.
Echinacea and Goldenseal can be used internally, and also externally on the affected skin (for
secondary staph). It is both an anti-fungal and also aids in healing.
6) Our most powerful anti-yeast tool by far is Yeast & Fungal Detox which is a tincture your give 3x/day
in water. It can be given in food if you double the dosage. This ensures that you are not only
weakening the yeast, but really eradicating it. Typically the dog will go through a "healing crisis" for a
day or two, and then they will be phenomenally better.
The healing crisis may include fever, eye exudate, mucus from the nose, yeast ears (use Ear Wash &
Dry), itchy skin eruptions (Aller'G Free, Dermaplex shampoo and Rejuva spray or Rejuva Gel helps),
and can even include a little diarrhea. This is the only way the body can eradicate the yeast, and the
mites that feed on the yeast. Do not panic, it will get better. Any acute symptoms are rare and should
be immediately evaluated by a veterinarian.
7) Zinc is also helpful during this treatment. You can feed ground pumpkin seeds or 10 - 30 milligrams
of chelated zinc tablets.
8) Absolutely NO vaccinations until the crisis is over and behind you for quite some time. Tell your
veterinarian that you want a health waiver until the pup is clear of demodex for at least 2 months or
more. It says on the vaccine vials that they should ONLY be given to healthy animals.
Since demodex is considered life threatening in some cases (usually only because it's mismanaged
with suppressive and toxic therapies), you cannot damage the immune system further with
vaccinations at this time. The key is that you need to enforce the immune system, not give it something
ELSE to try to deal with. That makes NO sense. If your vet doesn't agree, find one who will. It is
essential. Also, using cortisone on demodectic dogs will almost make treating the disease impossible.
9) Find ways to control parasites naturally. Nature's Finest Herbal Wormer can be used monthly to
keep tapeworm and other parasites under control. It contains ground walnut hull which is what
naturalists use to keep heartworm in check. You can also use aromatherapy (Aromaleigh Flea Spritz)
to keep fleas and mosquitoes away. You can place beneficial nematodes and plant lemon grasses in
the yard. There is a wealth of information out there to keep you away from putting poison in your dog
each month (apparently heartworm preventative incidentally is only needed every 6 weeks but they
think the general public is too stupid to grasp that and so make it monthly), plus another dab of toxin
between the shoulder blades. There are other ways to handle it in my opinion. It might take more work,
but the end result is a healthier dog and a healthier you (you don't need those toxins in your
environment either).
10) Dr. Pitcairn recommends the homeopathic Sulphur 6x with daily doses over a period of 4 weeks. At
each treatment, place just one pellet or tablet on the tongue or down the throat (without touching it
yourself). Do not feed your pet 10 minutes before or after this treatment. When the condition is
obviously clearing up, taper off of the treatments by giving the doses further apart. If there isn't a
complete cure in 4 weeks, then you can continue the treatment for as long as it helps for a period of
several months (but this is rare).
11) Dr. Pitcairn recommends a five day fast before starting the program if the dog is at a good weight
and it's overall health is good. A fast is something you ease into and ease out of, and he has complete
instructions in Chapter 15 of his book, Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and
Cats.
More information on yeast eradication is available in the allergy/ yeast article. Contact me directly with
any questions. The preceding article is a nutritional recommendation, and should not be a substitute
for quality veterinary care.
Cat Donnelly
AlternativePets.com
(501) 643-3026
NaturalPetFoods@aol.com
Below is just one of the good reasons to
include raw food and bone in your puppy's
diet!!!
include raw food and bone in your puppy's
diet!!!
